Deb and I arrived at the guard station as the sun was setting and were not allowed into the park. We had hoped to camp inside the boundaries of Perito Mereno, but the guard kindly said no, and pointed the way to a campsite nearby. We did not realize the magnificence of the view until the sun rose the next morning. Getting an early start on the day, we found that buses filled with other tourists had already beaten us to the top, but the view of the massive glacier was still stunning. As the sun ticked overhead to mid-day, we waited to hear the crack and fall of breaking ice. We stared with others, yet didn’t see anything so decided to walk to another viewpoint. Caught amongst the trees, which revealed fall had set in, we heard the crashes into the water. Do we run down or up? Back down, but with either decision we missed the action. Again we waited. Nothing. Let’s go back up. And again, stuck within the trees, chunks of ice fell into cold 3 degree waters. There was no winning this game. Long hours, day after day on a motorcycle had made my legs slow to move up flights of stairs. The memory of the sound is all that took with me.